英国におけるエスニック消費者向け化粧品/トイレタリーの市場

Abstract

Whereas the UK beauty industry has benefited from enormous changes in terms of new brand launches and innovative NPD, the ethnic cosmetics, skincare and haircare markets have lagged behind. Many ethnic brands have changed little since their introduction in the 1980s and there have been few new brand introductions.

Yet, women of ethnic origin are big spenders of beauty products and mainstream brands are starting to recognise this with the introduction of their own specialist ethnic lines. However, high street retailers have yet to spot the potential of the ethnic beauty market, which remains concentrated within the independent retail sector.

The report focuses on beauty products specifically designed for and targeted at non-Caucasian women. The following terms are those employed in official government statistics and are, in turn, based on self-ascription:

• Black refers to people of black Caribbean, black African and black Other (mixed or not mixed) ethnic origin.
• Asian refers to people of Indian, Pakistani or Bangladeshi origin.

Market sectors included in the report include:

• Make-up. The retail make-up (or colour cosmetics) market is defined as all colour cosmetics for women and includes facial make-up (foundation, blushers, illuminators, creams and powders, loose and pressed powders), eye make-up (eye shadows, eyeliners, eyebrow pencils, kohl and mascara), lip make-up (lipstick, lip glosses, lip pencils, lip plumpers, pots and palettes) and nail make-up (nail varnishes and polishes, hardeners and strengtheners, base and top coat).
• Skincare. Facial and body. Includes skin lighteners and whiteners as well as moisturisers and skin food products.
• Haircare products (shampoos and conditioners as well as styling products such as oils, relaxers, braid sheen sprays, as well as hairspray and hair gel).

It includes products sold via salons but not salon services themselves.

Table of Contents

• Issues in the Market
• Key themes
• Definitions
• Market in Brief
• Market potential has yet to be realised
• Importance of ethnic haircare
• Ethnic make-up faces competition
• Lack of availability hampers growth
• Identifying key consumer targets
• Future
• Internal Market Environment
• Key points
• Pride in appearance/obsession with the self
• Cult of celebrity
• Heads up on hair type
  • Figure 1: The UK population, by ethnic group, April 2001
• Different needs
• White at the end of the tunnel
• Cultural and religious differences
  • Figure 2: The UK population, by religious group, April 2001
• Broader Market Environment
• Key points
• Appealing growth
  • Figure 3: The UK ethnic population, 2002-07
• An age of opportunity
  • Figure 4: The UK ethnic population, by age, 2005
• Employment status and earnings
  • Figure 5: Employment status of non-white women, 2004/05
• Regional distribution
  • Figure 6: Regional distribution of the non-white population, April 2001
• Import regulations
• Competitive Context
• Key points
• Mainstream cosmetics and toiletries
• Limited distribution
• Regulation
• The US market
• Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market
• Strengths
• Weaknesses
• Market Size and Forecast
• Key points
  • Figure 7: UK value sales of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries at current and constant prices, 2002-07
• Making do holding back growth
• The future of the market
• Standard scenario
  • Figure 8: UK value sales of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries at current and constant prices, (standard scenario) 2007-12
• Greater availability scenario
• Flying off the shelf
  • Figure 9: UK retail value sales of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by sector, (greater availability scenario), 2007-12
• Segment Performance
• Key points
  • Figure 10: UK retail value sales of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by sector, (greater availability scenario), 2002-12
• Haircare ahead on value
• Skincare nourishing growth
• A lot of ground to make up
• Asians under-represented
• Segment forecast
• Per capita spend not faring so well
  • Figure 11: Comparison of annual spend per head on haircare, skincare and make-up, by total population aged 16+ and ethnic population aged 16+, 2002-07
• In black and white
• Ethnic pound making headway
• Companies and Products
• Key points
• Haircare
• L' Oréal SoftSheen-Carson
• M&M Cosmetics
• Alberto-Culver
• Other haircare brands
• Make-up
• Fashion Fair
• Iman Cosmetics
• Sleek International Ltd
• Black Opal
• Other brands
• Skincare
• ET Browne
• Fashion Fair
• Iman Cosmetics
• Skin-lightening brands
• Brand Communication and Promotion
• Key points
• Minimal adspend on ethnic cosmetics
  • Figure 12: Main monitored media advertising spend on ethnic cosmetics, 2003-07
• Highest media spend is on haircare
  • Figure 13: Promotional spend on ethnic cosmetics and toiletries in the UK, by category, 2003-07
• Adspend by advertiser
• Figure 14: Promotional spend on ethnic cosmetics and toiletries in the UK, by advertiser, 2007
• Mainly press advertising
  • Figure 15: Promotional spend on ethnic cosmetics and toiletries in the UK, by media type, 2003-07
• Advertising strategy
• Exhibitions/magazine awards
• Channels to Market
• Key points
• Limited distribution
• Independent ethnic retailers
• Department stores
• Boots
• Superdrug
• The Internet
• www.afrocare.com
• www.afrotherapy.com
• www.blackcareuk.com
• www.pakcosmetics.com
• High street stores
• Consumer Purchase
• Key points
• An inconvenient truth
  • Figure 16: Purchase of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, July 2007
• Frustration at restricted distribution
• Distribution
  • Figure 17: Purchasing ethnic cosmetics, by channel amongst those who only shop in one point of purchase, 2007
• Regional influence over shopping habits
  • Figure 18: Ease of purchase of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by selected region, July 2007
• Big spenders stay in the black
• Older women losing out
• Appendix
• Consumer research
• ACORN
• Advertising data
• Abbreviations
• Demographic of survey sample
  • Figure 25: Comparison of survey sample, by age, social grade, lifestage and household income, July 2007
• Consumer purchase
  • Figure 26: Purchase of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by age, ethnicity, socio-economic group, marital status, lifestage, age of own children in household, Mintel' s Special Groups, working status, gross annual household income, household tenure, TV region, ACORN group, technology users, Internet usage, daily newspapers, commercial TV viewing, TV received, supermarket used, household size, car usage, detailed lifestage groups, age/socio-economic groups and age finished full-time education, July 2007
• Consumer attitudes
  • Figure 27: Most common attitudes towards ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by age, ethnicity, socio-economic group, marital status, lifestage, age of own children in household, Mintel' s Special Groups, working status, gross annual household income, household tenure, TV region, ACORN group, technology users, Internet usage, daily newspapers, commercial TV viewing, TV received, supermarket used, household size, car usage, detailed lifestage groups, age/socio-economic groups and age finished full-time education, July 2007
  • Figure 28: Attitudes towards ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by age, ethnicity, socio-economic group, marital status, lifestage, age of own children in household, Mintel' s Special Groups, working status, gross annual household income, household tenure, TV region, ACORN group, technology users, Internet usage, daily newspapers, commercial TV viewing, TV received, supermarket used, household size, car usage, detailed lifestage groups, age/socio-economic groups and age finished full-time education, July 2007
• Consumer views on ethnic cosmetics
  • Figure 29: Balance of views, by age, socio-economic group, lifestage and ethnicity, July 2007